Sabre Armoury Section
Sabre is a both a cutting and thrusting weapon. The weapon weighs no more than 500 grams, with a maximum length of 105 cm. The valid target area is the whole body above the waistline, including arms and mask. In electric Sabre, the target area is covered by a metallic jacket, with the electrically conductive mask connected to the jacket. A hit on the valid target area causes a colored lamp to light on the registering apparatus. Sabre fencing evolved from cavalry swordsmanship where opponents were fighting on horseback. The opponent’s body above the saddle was most vulnerable, and evolved into the “valid" target area.

Mounting a sabre from its parts

A “set” should be put on the blade before it is mounted, this brings the tip of the blade more centrally towards the target when you are standing en garde. To set a blade you should place the tang of the blade in a vice and pull gently on the forte (the thicker end of the blade just above the tang).

In saber the set should be down and slightly to the left for a right handed fencer; down and slightly to the right for a left handed fencer. A standard set of about 7-9 degrees; a heavy set is bent more, a light set is less. The degree of set you put on a blade is down to personal preference and your style of fencing.After setting the blade, lock the blade in a vice with the tang pointing up and slide on the guard.

Then slide the inside guard socket (bayonet or two pin) under the insulating layer of foam. All Leon Paul saber IGS are now sold pre shorted, for other designs you may need to short out the insulated pin against the inside of your guard using a small piece of wire.

Next place the insulating foam layer and handle onto the guard. To make it easier to place the pommel on it is sometimes worth pre bending the guard to ensure that it sits close to the threaded end of the tang.

Bend the tang into place and then tighten the pommel with the jaws of the vice or a spanner.

Sabre Lamé

A lamé jacket is a metallic jacket made of both fabric and metallic threads. The lamé works best when the metallic threads are intact and able to conduct electricity with little resistance. Lamés are damaged by water and particularly sweat because the salt in sweat corrodes the metal fibers making them more susceptible to breaking. The best way to make your lamé last for a long time is to is to take good care of it. After use place the lamé in an area it can dry quickly (not stuffed back in you're bag with your sweaty jacket!), make sure it is not folded or crumpled to prevent extra forces being placed on the metal fibres. The best places are: hung above radiators or in airing cupboards. From time to time you may also want to rinse your lame gently and then pat it dry with a towel or paper towels before hanging it. If you pack your lamé in a bag, roll it rather than folding it to prevent the metallic threads from being broken. Keeping your lamé separate from your weapons and clothing will help preserve both your weapons and lamé, and to stop oxides from getting on your whites. To clean your lamé and to get rid of any salt deposits, you should place it in a mixture of mild detergent along with some ammonia. After you have rinsed your lamé, hang it to dry do not tumble dry. If you have a lamé that has a small dead spot, or a spot that fails inspection, you can try spot-cleaning it with a bit of an ammonia-based cleaner such as Windex™. Gently spray on a little bit of Windex and let it dry. If an area is still totally dead you will need to patch the lamé, cloth and Light-Weight Lamé patches can be ordered direct from Leon Paul.

© 2007 C Wheeler and Leon Paul

 







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